miércoles, 14 de noviembre de 2012

Luby&Lemerald


Bienvenidos al universo Luby&Lemerald.

Y ahora sí, dicho y escrito de la manera correcta. Me ha costado una tarde de visita, conociendo de cerca la firma que ya había visto pasear por editoriales y eventos a Laura Ponte, en las muñecas y manos de las chicas más "it" del momento y en las vitrinas de Colette.
Soy dura de mollera, en especial con el tema nombres, y durante más de un año la llamé "la colección de joyas de La Ponte" por aquello de no acabar dando nombres erróneos.


Fue la propia Laura Ponte, junto a su socio Luis Feliu de la Peña, quien nos mostró tanto el que se convierte en espacio insigne de la marca como el lugar donde darán cabida a determinadas presentaciones de carácter cultural. Porque Luby&Lemerald va a ser más que una colección de joyas, será un distintivo. 
Yo lo llamaría: Exclusivo.

Habilitado el despacho de manera sencilla pero exquisita se respira ese toque al que nos tiene habituados Laura cuando se trata de temas en decoración, esta vez menos recargado, en el que predomina el gris en paredes, suelo y mobiliario, espejos, iluminación indirecta y toques de dorado en las lámparas de pie.


Con tan solo dos colecciones en el mercado, Tube 010 (en la imagen) y Nautilo, recientemente lanzada, se ha convertido en una de las firmas de joyería nacional con más proyección internacional.
Y no porque lo digan sus creadores, más bien discretos en este tipo de temas, sino porque no hace falta más que darse un paseo por sus puntos de ventas en Los Ángeles, Miami, París, Bruselas... para darse cuenta de donde están ubicados.


Es sobre todo Laura quien habla sobre la firma. Como diseñadora nos cuenta los motivos que le inspiran a la hora de crear, de su afición a las joyas, a la bisutería, a esas ganas de jugar con piezas explosivas no vistas hasta el momento en el mercado.....


Sobre Nautilo (en la imagen Tube 010) nos explica los motivos sobre los que se han desarrollado cada pieza, como los anillos Langosta, Meduse, Wave, Calamar o Seaweed, muy poco figurativos a sus formas reales, si captan a través de lo abstracto su espíritu.


Y también de las colecciones de la firma que van más allá de la alta joyería, estrictamente hablando, a través LubyLab donde se lanzan a un universo más exagerado con colecciones como esta creada en colaboración para el desfile de Alvarno S/S 2013 en la que mezclan metal y piel para confeccionar brazaletes, pulseras, apliques....


De lo tangible, pasamos a conocer el taller, junto a José, quien atesora 25 años de experiencia en el mundo de la joyería, donde las ideas y bocetos de Laura adquieren diversos estadios. 
Desde el diseño, a los prototipos para el molde, el fundido de la pieza.... llegando hasta la pieza final.


Un proceso que necesita de una diversidad de profesiones hasta ahora nunca imaginada, sobre todo para mi, y creo que para Laura también cuando decidió comenzar con esta nueva faceta: un escultor para dar forma al prototipo inicial, un dibujante, un orfebre que trabaje los metales, un gemólogo especializado en piedras, un lapidario que talle las piedras, un engastador para montarlas, un grabador, un pulidor, un fundidor, un fabricante de herramientas, un dibujante y diseñador para producción mecanizada....

Es entonces cuando recuerdo una primera conversación con Laura, de hace mucho, sobre la complejidad en los procesos de fabricación.


En el final del recorrido conocemos un último espacio que acogerá el despacho, esta vez a modo de showroom con la venta de piezas únicas en Madrid como son las camisas de Baruc Corazón, las joyas de Yara Figueiredo, llegadas desde Río de Janeiro, MadStone Design de la americana Kerri Halpern o Shania Jewels, desde Bélgica, también estarán a la venta las piezas de un sombrero muy popular internacional (no se puede confirmar...pero ¿quién creéis que puedes ser?), altas gamas de calzado... y todo de manera exclusiva.

Desde luego, Luby&Lemerald se va a convertir en el lugar predilecto de aquellos que buscan algo singular.
Acaso ¿No es Laura única?

39 comentarios:

RECIEN LLEGADA dijo...

Laura es única ¡ mi preferida desde siempre.
Únicas son también sus colecciones , reflejan un mundo muy intimo , arriesgado y potente.
Los anillos de su última colección molan mucho.
Beso Mayte .

Delia

la emperatriz de lavapiés dijo...

Fan total de Laura Ponte. De Luby&Lemerad sólo había visto la primera colección, de piezas tubulares, después perdí la pista.

Cheska dijo...

Y tanto que es unica! de siempre me ha gustado tanto ella como todo lo que hace. Cuando sacó la coleccion de Tube ya publiqué en mi blog porque me encantó, me parecio preciosa. Una suerte haber visitado su rincon!!

Bss
vistetedeseda.blogspot.com

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Estamos todas de acuerdo de que Laura es única, la colección Tube me encantó. El showroom será algo único.

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