sábado, 7 de julio de 2012

Louis Vuitton & Marc Jacobs

Por Jose Luis Maseda.


Los dos nombres que acabas de leer son más que suficiente motivo para que las venas de los fashionistaspadezcan como un “efecto primaveral” de alteración instantánea.
Así que si estás en París y (entre las otras mil opciones posibles) quieres añadir un poco de moda a tu circulación sanguínea, hasta el próximo 16 de septiembre lo mejor que puedes hacer es acudir al Musée des Arts Décoratifs y visitar la exposición consagrada a Louis Vuitton y Marc Jacobs.
 
En ella se presenta la historia y las dos personalidades de estos creadores, y pone también en evidencia sus respectivas contribuciones a la historia de la moda, detallando la manera por la que ambos consiguen innovar y hacer evolucionar toda una industria cada uno en su contexto cronológico.
Más que ser realmente una retrospectiva, es un análisis paralelo de la evolución de sendos diseñadores de vanguardia en el movimiento social y comercial que les corresponde a cada uno: la industrialización de finales del siglo XIX para Louis Vuitton, y la globalización de los mercados actuales para el segundo, Marc Jacobs.
 


Organizada en dos niveles, y bajo la puesta en escena de Sam Gainsbury y Joseph Bennet la exposición consagra cada planta a uno de los protagonistas. Así, las maletas y baúles junto a los accesorios típicos del siglo XIX se presentan en la primera y una selección de los modelos más emblemáticos creados por Marc Jacobs durante los últimos quince años aparecen en la segunda.


Louis Vuitton (1821-1892) aprendió las artes del oficio de maletero gracias a la casa Maréchal. Durante diecisiete años perfecciona la técnica inherente a esta profesión hasta dominar todos los aspectos, desde la creación del embalaje hasta la logística y reparto de la carga interna. De este modo, en 1854 abre su propia tienda en el número 4 de la calle Neuve-des-Capucines, en París. Poco a poco Vuitton afianza su negocio al ser más avispado que el resto y especializarse en el transporte de moda.


Tuvo muy buen ojo comercial porque en aquella época no solamente la Alta Costura estaba en pleno auge gracias al pionero modista Charles-Fréderick Worth (y otras firmas como Paquin y Doucet), sino que debido a la proliferación de Exposiciones Universales, la curiosidad por culturas extranjeras y las ganas de viajar eran prácticamente una epidemia en la alta sociedad parisina. Se las ingenió para poder presentar sus creaciones en algunas de estas exposiciones, en las que introducía cada vez alguna ingeniosa novedad con lo que se aseguraba una visibilidad y publicidad tremendas.



Los primeros baúles aúnan todas las características técnicas de vanguardia propias de aquellos años y están recubiertas de un tejido encerado que lo convierte en impermeable. Este material, llamado Trianon está pintado en color gris, sobre el que se inscriben las iniciales o armas de los clientes.
Así Vuitton, para diferenciarse del resto de profesionales y evitando las copias, da cada vez más importancia a los revestimientos de sus maletas y baúles, depositando en 1877 una primera patente para un tejido a rayas disponible en varios colores. Once años más tarde presenta una nueva patente para la “toile Damier”, tipo tablero de damas y que conocemos todavía hoy en día. Al aparecer así las iniciales de Louis Vuitton en cada maleta como prueba de su autenticidad, su propio hijo Georges sigue la lógica comercial y en 1896 crea el desde entonces famoso Monograma “LV”.



Instalado desde 1872 en el exquisito barrio de la ópera (recién renovado a manos del barón Haussmann), se sitúa en primera línea del lujo junto a las otras firmas de moda instaladas en la zona que concentra toda la burguesía parisina con ganas de gastar dinero. Al estar tan cerca, inicia una buena amistad con gente como el propio creador de moda Worth quien adelantándole detalles de colecciones cada vez más sofisticadas y llenas de complementos, favorece que Vuitton consiga proponer antes que nadie baúles perfectamente adaptados al transporte de estas nuevas prendas, con lo que sus ventas se dispararon teniendo como principales clientes a la alta sociedad y los artistas de entonces, tales como la actriz Sarah Bernhardt. Sigue siendo así.


Marc Jacobs por su parte, ha sido uno de los protagonistas de la evolución de la moda en los últimos años. Internacionalizada en los 80, en la década siguiente la moda se ve convertida en un sector mundializado (globalización obliga), con lo que los creadores de moda están forzados a rescribir las reglas del juego. Ya no solamente tienen que ser buenos creativos sino que tienen que hacer frente a la presión mediática e industrial internacional, asegurando su valor en cuanto a directores artísticos, asesores, especialistas en marketing y portavoces de las marcas para las que diseñan. Y Marc, para eso, vale.
Diplomado en 1984 de la Parson’s School of Design de Nueva York, solamente cuatro años después, a la edad de 25, lo nombran creador de la firma americana Perry Ellis. Esta marca es una de las más importantes del prêt-à-porter americano junto a Ralph Lauren y Calvin Klein, con lo que la responsabilidad para Jacobs era simplemente brutal, y es lanzado directamente a primera línea en el circo de los diseñadores de alto nivel internacional. Adaptándose perfectamente a la historia de la marca, consigue deshacerse de las ataduras estilísticas hereditarias y dar un nuevo y más contemporáneo estilo a la misma, cosa que hará que ésta respire aire fresco. A pesar del éxito y la buena relación con la firma, en 1992 presenta su colección “Grunge” tan aplaudida por la prensa pero tan incomprendida por los compradores y opuesta al espíritu de Perry Ellis que se ve obligado a retirarse y abandonar el barco.



Aún así, son los propios propietarios de Perry Ellis los que le ayudan a financiar la creación de su propia marca, que sigue vigente aún hoy en día.
Habiendo seguido su trayectoria y con el gran olfato cazatalentos que caracteriza al grupo LVMH, el 7 de enero de 1997 Marc Jacobs es nombrado director artístico de la casa Louis Vuitton, que a pesar de sus ciento cuarenta y tres años de antigüedad no dudó ni por un momento en ficharlo a la cabeza de la creación en su firma. Eso sí, por vez primera, Jacobs tenía que cumplir un contrato en el que la apuesta era grande, puesto que debía presentar colecciones de prêt-à-porter masculino, femenino y una línea de accesorios, calzado y bolsos.



Cosa que, acostumbrado a las grandes empresas, y a pesar de la tremenda presión mediática y económica, lleva haciendo desde entonces sin prácticamente ningún fallo ni esfuerzo, y con un pragmatismo y fuerza mental que otros quisieran: “Soy un diseñador que trabaja junto a un equipo de diseñadores, juntos proponemos las nuevas colecciones de ropa y accesorios y les damos forma en el formato del desfile. Podemos opinar sobre el resto del proceso, incluida la publicidad, pero se trata solamente de opiniones ya que no tenemos decisión en cuanto al merchandising final, y es por eso que dentro de la estructura de Vuitton me permito colaboraciones con otros puntos de vista, con artistas como Stephen Sprouse, Takashi Murakami o Richard Prince. Me muevo por impulsos, no por cifras, y aunque algunos no puedan concebir la vida sin la moda, yo no puedo imaginarme la moda sin la propia vida”.



Dos personalidades, dos talentos creativos y con vista comercial (que al fin y al cabo el objetivo final de la moda es vender) y una relación de quince años ya que puedes presenciar en esta exposición. Viendo también los vídeos de todos los desfiles de la marca en un original peepshow, disfrutando con innumerables bolsos de diversas temporadas expuestos como si fuesen bombones en una caja, aprovechando el poder observar al detalle las puestas en escena y detalles de las prendas y también darte cuenta de lo que puede evolucionar una misma firma, pasando de baúles y accesorios para muñecas, hasta la última vanguardia de moda en prendas, zapatos y bolsos.
Louis Vuitton y Marc Jacobs, en el amor creativo los opuestos se atraen. Y sale bien.

85 comentarios:

Chica dijo...

¡Menuda exposición!

Anónimo dijo...

uuuuuuaaaaauuuu!!
Dan ganas de ir a verla ahora mismo!!

Adoro los baúles de Vuitton...

Saludos!
www.ladylike-me.blogspot.com

Maite dijo...

Vaya con todo lo dicho entran ganas de coger un avión rumbo a París ya!

Cheska dijo...

Me ha encantado de nuevo tu post, he disfrutado mucho leyendolo, gracias por descubrirnos cosas tan interesantes, que suerte tienes de poder ver la expo!

Bss
vistetedeseda.blogspot.com

Afilando mis tacones dijo...

Estuve hace poco más de un mes viéndola! Lástima que no pude hacer tantas fotos, nos lo tenían absolutamente prohibido :(

Sin duda una exposición diferente y muy cuidada. Junto con la de YSL en la fundación Mafre de lo mejor que he visto últimamente.

Mayte de la Iglesia dijo...

Afilando mis tacones: Hay que esconder la cámara!! jejejejjej Nosotros nos hemos hecho unos expertos en desenfundarla en museos.....

Cheska: Seguirá hasta septiembre por si te puedes pasar por París.

Maite: De inmediato.

Lady like me: Hace poco en la tienda de Valencia tenian unos preciosos en el escaparate.

Chica: Ya te digo!!

GRACIAS POR LOS COMENTARIOS.
bs
Mayte

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